MR2 Championship

Anyone know if the Mk2 LSD is interchangable and compatible with the Roadster 5 speed gearbox?

Hi Elliot,

EDM wrote:Anyone know if the Mk2 LSD is interchangable and compatible with the Roadster 5 speed gearbox?

To the best of my knowledge it is the same part - it's definitely interchangeable and something we've done for road customers before.

How far off joining us on the grid are you?

Cheers,

Patrick

EDM wrote:Anyone know if the Mk2 LSD is interchangable and compatible with the Roadster 5 speed gearbox?

Just to bare in mind and you probably already know anyway, but ALL UK mk3 MR2 Roadsters come with a factory fit LSD as standard.
JDM Imports will have an open diff fitted as standard unless origninally ordered as an optional extra. (Although this is fairly rare it seems)

Rowland

Thanks chaps,

As far as I'm aware its a UK car, if it does have an LSD, it doesn't work. I assume its a plated unit that is used? or is it a Torsen type?

Rogue wrote: How far off joining us on the grid are you?

Well........ the cage company has had my shell for over a month now, which is VERY disapointing, and a major setback. I'm not going to Angelsey (not even with the Golf) so I'd hope to be at Cadwell.

Thanks again.

EDM wrote:As far as I'm aware its a UK car, if it does have an LSD, it doesn't work. I assume its a plated unit that is used? or is it a Torsen type?

It's a torsen type. You can't tell just by jacking the back end up and spinning a wheel...

'It's a torsen type'

Arr yes, in which case I'll have to test it when the car is put back together.

P.S thanks for sorting my post, I never seem to get on very well with the 'quote' button!

Thanks.

Hi guys, I'm new here having just passed my ARDS test a couple of weeks ago. I was at Anglesey for the Stock Hatch immediately after and of course saw the MR2s there. I hadn't seen the Mk3s included in the racing before but having seen them in action am now quite keen to go for one.

I've seen a few cars that are possible contenders for prep, my main questions are

How can I tell if I'm looking at UK car?
If I can't tell it's UK car, is there any way to reliably test whether the car has a LSD?
Apart from the standard fit LSD on UK cars, is there any other important spec difference (e.g. dampers)?

Don't want to go and buy a 'bargain' only to find it's going to cost me even more to get right!

Cheers
Paul

Mr_Angry wrote:
How can I tell if I'm looking at UK car?
If I can't tell it's UK car, is there any way to reliably test whether the car has a LSD?
Apart from the standard fit LSD on UK cars, is there any other important spec difference (e.g. dampers)?

Don't want to go and buy a 'bargain' only to find it's going to cost me even more to get right!

Cheers
Paul

Hi Paul, welcome along.

The majority of mk3 MR2's in this country are UK models.
Those that have been imported from Japan are badged as an MR-S.
Square number plates are a basic giveaway as a Japanese import.
Also, many MR-S's come over with subtle bodykits fitted, such as the black car below.



UK Model Roadster




Japanese Model MR-S:






1. Some colours are also import only colours, white for example wasn't available in the UK, but was in Japan.

2. Upon viewing a car with potential to buy, check the indicator stalk if you're not 100% sure. If it's an import the indicator stalk will be on the right, UK and it'll be on the left.

3. The chassis plate will have Japanese writing on an import too.

4. I'm pretty sure the starting procedure is 'clutch down' on JDM models and 'foot brake down' on UK models.


Going back to LSD's, the chassis plate in the engine bay will either have an 'A' suffix code or a 'B' suffix code.
Since LSD's were an optional extra in Japan, more often than not it'll be an 'A' suffix and the gearbox will be open dif.

Non LSD mk3 MR2 Box (Japanese)

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3613/0011024x768.jpg

LSD mk3 MR2 Gearbox (UK)
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5969/2 ... 24x768.jpg


Best bet is to buy a UK car to be sure of an LSD to be 100% honest, OR factor in another £250 for a used UK box plus fitting costs.

To my knowledge there are no performance additions between JDM and UK mk3 MR2's.
Be aware that mk3's were fitted with SMT gearbox's too, both in the UK and in Japan.
Stay well clear of these unless you want to be at the very back of the grid by the first corner!



Hope this helps,

Rowland

(Regretably an MR2 geek...)

Thanks for the quick reply Rowland, I do agree you're definitely an MR2 geek but it's always good to know someone out there knows the answer

All good info, certainly enough to make sure I know what I'm looking at when I start looking in earnest. I think I'll be playing it safe and going for a UK model, I like the indicator stalk tip! I shall most definitely be staying away from the SMT too!

First I need to make sure I can move on my current track car (hopefully going this weekend) then I know where I'm at financially. I've been looking at one with a blown engine but the quote I've just had from Rogue (sorry if you're reading this Patrick!) has rather put me off so time to re-evaluate if it's doable for me.

Fingers crossed and a fair financial wind and I'll be there on the grid soon!

Cheers
Paul

No problem Paul, glad to help.

Three things to consider if you're thinking of buying a mk3 for racing.

1. Its surprisingly common place to see early mk3's (1999-2002) come up for sale with failed engines. If you're currently researching cheapy mk3's for sale, you'll have no doubt found this already.
If you're looking to buy one with a view to fitting a good engine, don't pay more that around £2,000 and look for one with a hardtop fitted too.
It goes without saying if you can stretch your budget to a freshly rebuilt engine + £2k car you've yourself got a strong package from the off.


2. If money is on your side then aim for a late 2002 onwards face lift model.
Apparently Toyota redesigned the internal oil flow route that appears to have caused failed engines in the earlier models.
Having said that my 2004 model went bang at Anglesey so I'll reserve judgement on that until the engine is inspected in detail!

The later model also has a redesigned, bigger thicker chassis brace under the car.
It has also been noted that the front running mk3's drivers have later models too. And they're both silver...



3. Finally another angle on this is to buy accident damaged, which is exactly what I did.
As long as the damage isn't horrific with regards to chassis rails etc, bent panels can be replaced on a surprisingly small budget.
If the airbags have been deployed even better, the traders won't be interested and you'll be ripping them out anyway when you race prep it.
If you have a friendly local bodyshop I believe this is the way to go.

Keep an eye out for cars like these.

http://tinyurl.com/npgyhw

This website also has mk3's from time to time go for under £2k.

http://www.salvagesparefinder.co.uk/


Hope this helps.

Rowland

Welcome Mr_Angry

Cheers Alric

Thanks for the info Rowland, all good useful stuff.

I was at Anglesey so your comment caused a moment... I guess yours is the silver one with black bodykit that didn't race? That's the one I spotted in the paddock parked parallel to the road and first got me on the idea of a mk3. At least I know who to blame if I end up spending too much hehe.

Money definitely isn't on my side, being able to do one atall is looking doubtful at the moment but I keep on trying to justify to myself it's the right way to go. That harder part is I'll be sharing the car (and cost) with my partner so more than just myself to convince!!

There's a car I've got my eye on at the moment that is yr2000 and going for approx 2k with the damaged engine. It doesn't have a hard top so would I be paying too much for it if I went for it? I can't believe I'd get one much cheaper. If I do go for it, how much do hard tops usually go for and do they come up often? I must admit I'm erring toward the car with the damaged engine rather than others I've seen with crash damage since I'd have thought going out there with a fresh engine would give the best performance nad best chance of longevity.

The one I'm looking at isn't silver so I guess that'll put me at the back of the grid... of course it wouldn't be anything to do with my novice abilities

Saw the one at Loughborough, useful since it's only 8 miles from here... not so sure about the engine situation or how much panels would be... Also not so many nice parts to sell off it as the other one I'm looking at. I'll definitely keep my eyes peeled on the salvage website though.

Cheers
Paul

(Money definitely isn't on my side, being able to do one atall is looking doubtful at the moment but I keep on trying to justify to myself it's the right way to go. That harder part is I'll be sharing the car (and cost) with my partner so more than just myself to convince!!)

If that's the case, maybe a MK2 would be better for you. Base cars are cheap and unlike the Roadster, bits seem much easier to come by, new & second hand.

I would say £2k for a 2000MY Roadster without a hard top and with a NKD engine is top dollar and I'm sure you could find one cheaper.

To be honest, the lack of parts & help available for the Roadster has put a bit of a dampener on the whole project for me. Alric's superb piloting of his Roadster is the only reason that mine hasn't been put in the corner (with other unfinished toys) to collect dust.

Thankfully, the car is now taking shape and I am again looking forward to actually driving it in the not to distant future.

Thanks for the pic of the cage Eliot, I hadn't seen the detail before, looks great.

I hear what you're saying about the affordability of the mk2 but it really doesn't appeal to me the way the roadster or even the mk1 does. My reservation with the Mk1 is it's now getting a bit old hat and retained values I expect will be dropping away soon. I could easily go for a mk2 (and might still do yet) since there's a good value prepared one available on the 750mc site but it is substantially heavier and apart from anything else starts pushing the boundaries of what I can tow (1200kg limit).

If you're enthusiasm's waining, fancy selling a part finished project

Mr_Angry wrote:I was at Anglesey so your comment caused a moment... I guess yours is the silver one with black bodykit that didn't race?

Yes that's the one. Hopefully a new engine going in very soon....

Mr_Angry wrote:There's a car I've got my eye on at the moment that is yr2000 and going for approx 2k with the damaged engine. It doesn't have a hard top so would I be paying too much for it if I went for it? I can't believe I'd get one much cheaper. If I do go for it, how much do hard tops usually go for and do they come up often? I must admit I'm erring toward the car with the damaged engine rather than others I've seen with crash damage since I'd have thought going out there with a fresh engine would give the best performance nad best chance of longevity.

If it was a road car I'd tell you factor in £300-£400 for a hardtop and £200 for the all important hardtop fitting kit.
Basically the fitting hardware mounts within the car and the hardtop clamps to the mounts via four clasps on the hardtop.

http://www.mr2roc.org/misc/referencelib ... ardtop.pdf

However, because yours will be a race car the OEM mounting hardware won't be required and Rogue provide an alternative more scruiteneer friendly fitting kit.
You will still however need the chrome pieces labelled 6 & 7 on the link above from Toyota.
Hard tops vary in price depending on colour. (I'm talking eBay prices here by the way)
Silver is by far the most popular colour and therefore around £300, green and yellow less so, sub £250.
Black holds is price as many choose to mount a black hardtop to silver/red/yellow/black Roadsters so £400+ is pretty common.

http://tinyurl.com/myuor2

One thing to bare in mind is that you can remove the soft-top and sell this on to offset the cost of a hardtop....




Ps. In theory you could run without a roof altogether, mind you I think the 750MC would take a dim view of you wearing a Pacamac over your race suit should it rain!